One of the biggest impediments to fully unwinding on vacation is the additional bookings, reservations, and planning involved once you arrive. Working around a hotel’s dinner schedules, workout classes, excursions, and other activities can somewhat undermine the whole point of temporarily removing structure and worry from your life. Not to mention being handed a check to sign after every meal, coffee, or activity, reminding you of the escalating cost of being away. I don’t know about you, but I’m too Type A not to let these things interrupt my holiday flow.

Recognizing the issue, Four Seasons introduced an innovative concept at its relatively new resort in Punta Mita, on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. At Naviva, A Four Seasons Resort, absolutely everything is included in your room rate (starting at a cool $3,500 per night), and there’s not a single piece of paper to sign. This may sound like a typical all-inclusive, but Naviva goes far beyond expectations and delivers an experience unlike any other I’ve come across.

For all guests, the team at the restaurant, Copal, is on hand to prepare anything—yes, anything—you could dream of eating at any time of day (late at night, the menu from the main Four Seasons resort next door has to suffice). If you’re in the mood to exercise, the on-site trainer is ready and waiting to tailor a workout to your fitness goals or ability level. Send a quick WhatsApp message or use the Four Seasons app, and drinks, snacks, toiletries—or I’m sure any more niche items—will be delivered to your villa within minutes. This is serious service, but always with a smile.

Several weeks before our trip, we spoke with a Naviva concierge over Zoom. She explained the resort’s unorthodox approach and talked us through the long list of experiences included with our stay, helping to create a personalized itinerary. From fishing and kayaking to a traditional temazcal ceremony, the wealth of options was slightly overwhelming. However, the concierge stressed that nothing was mandatory, and we could move or cancel any activity at any point before or during our stay. We settled on a few that sounded fun and relaxing, and a neatly prepared PDF outlining our itinerary promptly landed in my inbox a week later.

Jonathan and I spent our two nights at Naviva last week, and I’m still thinking about our time there. Located an hour and change from Puerto Vallarta, the property sits on 48 acres of lush coastal jungle that tumble down to a private sandy cove shared with the neighboring Four Seasons resort. Naviva is adults-only (hallelujah!) and comprises just 15 villas, although only three were occupied during our stay. August is the region’s low season due to the intense heat and heavy rainfall, but if you’re used to a tropical climate, it’s perfectly bearable.

Notably, Jalisco has seen a sharp drop in tourism since cartel-related outbreaks of violence occurred in February 2026. These were heavily documented by the media but were seemingly isolated, as no further incidents have been reported since. We had no issues at all in Puerto Vallarta during the few days we spent there beforehand, and Naviva and the other luxury resorts across Punta Mita are located within a guarded, gated community, making them very safe to visit.

Upon arrival, guests are immediately welcomed into and enveloped by the resort’s organic architecture, designed by Luxury Frontiers—the same studio behind the tented Camp Sarika at Amangiri in Utah and the nature-integrated Mandapa in Bali. A long woven bamboo tunnel culminates in the “lobby,” although there’s no check-in desk or formal arrival process, so it’s really just a pretty lounge. Meanwhile, the villas are sheltered by tented canopies modeled on butterfly wings, and the restaurant is housed within a vortex-shaped structure topped by a sweeping bamboo roof. All of the buildings are nestled into the tropical surroundings so seamlessly that they’re difficult to spot while moving around by foot or golf cart.

The communal pool area is also hidden within the foliage, which conveniently parts to reveal an ocean view. A series of cascading terraces follows the natural slope, incorporating rocky outcrops and secluded niches for loungers and cabanas. Water flows between them, creating a far more visually interesting landscape than a typical single-level pool. Though it’s not to be missed, you’d also be forgiven for never leaving the private ocean- or jungle-view plunge pool that comes with each villa.

The villas are designed to evoke safari camps, with folded canvas window scarves and accessories like a vintage telescope and cocktail kit that elevate the fantasy. Each features a spacious terrace with loungers and a hammock for lazing in the sun, an outdoor shower for cooling off afterward, and a fire pit to set the mood after dark. Fully retractable glass doors seamlessly connect the indoors and outdoors (when it’s cool enough), and select villas offer spectacular sunset views from every angle. Completely private, they really feel like your own little world. Check out my latest Robe Report episode on Instagram for a full tour.

A major highlight for us was the spa, where treatments take place in bamboo “pods” tucked along winding pathways deep in the jungle. Our blissful couple’s massage began with a traditional cleansing ritual, then involved being pulled apart and reassembled muscle by muscle, and ended with delicious homemade kombucha and a soothing soak in the hot tub. I’m fortunate to receive a lot of massages, and this was up there with the very best. That came down to the spectacular setting, a therapist who knew exactly what she was doing, and the fact that I was able to enjoy the experience with my husband.

The other experiences we took part in included a Mexican wine tasting, during which our host Pollo guided us through the country’s major wine regions and explained the differences between the various red varietals. The takeaway? Don’t sleep on Mexican wine! We returned the following day for an agave tasting featuring numerous styles of tequila and mezcal, as well as raicilla—a regional variation unique to Jalisco that sits somewhere between the other two in flavor. It’s excellent in an espresso martini, FYI. Naviva even produces its own raicilla on-site and sources others from local producers. After nine (!) samples during the tasting, we were as cooked as the agave leaves used to make the spirits.

Every member of the Naviva team was incredibly enthusiastic and passionate about their area of expertise. We canceled a coffee-tasting session a couple of days before arriving because it was scheduled for 8am (and we’re sleepy boys), and its leader, Jonny, seemed genuinely disappointed when we bumped into him later that day. He promptly ran off and returned with a bag of the beans he had roasted for us to take home so we didn’t miss out entirely.

Similarly, we accidentally missed a stretching class with on-site trainer Hugo because of a last-minute meeting with the regional vice president for Four Seasons (yes I was actually working!). Hugo sought us out later to introduce himself and offer us any other activity we’d like to try. Sadly, we didn’t have time, and honestly, it was also far too hot to exert ourselves with anything more strenuous than light stretching anyway.

The food at Copal was nothing short of sensational. Jonathan ordered a chicken Milanese for lunch when we arrived (because he could!) and asked for it again the next day because it was that good. Alongside the “anything you want” option, the chefs prepare daily lunch and dinner specials, and I made it my mission to try as many as possible. My lunchtime ceviche surrounded an avocado-walled pool of leche de tigre, colored bright blue with butterfly pea flowers. Loaded pork belly tacos, beef tongue carpaccio, and spicy dry-rubbed chicken were among the evening highlights—all original in both preparation and presentation.

On our second and final night, we frolicked on the deserted beach while watching a spectacular sunset over the Pacific, then soaked in our plunge pool with a chilled bottle of rosé to catch the final traces of color fading from the sky. This is paradise in every sense of the word, and while it comes with a hefty price tag, it makes perfect sense for an extra-special occasion like a honeymoon or milestone birthday. You can truly relax here—or pack your days with as many activities as possible, if that’s more your style. Either way, it’s a vacation you’ll never forget.

For us, having drifted effortlessly around the property from one beautiful spot to the next—without a care in the world—enjoyed impeccable service, overindulged in incredible food and drinks, and essentially had my vertebrae realigned, I’m happy to report that Naviva’s unique, paperless, menu-less, all-encompassing approach to luxury is a resounding triumph. We were so completely unwound that it’s been almost painful winding ourselves back up after returning home. Other hospitality groups should take note—and catch up quickly. Because by removing the lingering barriers to truly switching off, Naviva and Four Seasons have absolutely raised the bar.

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication; if you’re a brand or company that would like to explore options for bespoke content; if you’d like to support the publication beyond a paid subscription—please get in touch!

I’m also looking for collaborations and partners for Robe Report, my new Instagram series that provides intimate, dressed-down peeks into the world’s best luxury hotel suites and villas. Find out more here.

All photography featured in Far-Flung Corners is my own, unless specified otherwise. Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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Hot, sticky, wet, and wild, July rolled in with an eagerly anticipated trip to Spain over the 4th weekend. We visited Madrid for Pride, then Menorca to decompress—see My Favorite Corners of this magic island here. Back in NYC, the curse of Taylor Swift’s Madison Square Garden wedding brought wildfire smoke, explosive diarrhea, glass-filled bread, tornado warnings, and more, sending a spectacular start to summer, erm, somewhat sideways. Nevertheless, I visited some great new spots around the city, and also spent a gloriously sunny weekend out in Montauk thanks to The EDITION group. See the places that I loved this month below.

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Let’s face it: traditional hotel reviews can be a bit same-y. Yes, every writer has a unique take and POV, and many do an excellent job of describing their experiences and explaining to readers—and potential future guests—what to expect from a particular property. And I celebrate that! But in 2026, perhaps this information could be delivered in a way that’s more personal, more fun, and maybe even a little sexier?!

When I began publishing this newsletter, I started writing hotel reviews to offer my own two cents on the properties I’m very fortunate to visit. But as time went by, I didn’t feel like I was contributing anything extra or really adding that much more value. Plus, I gratefully write articles and reviews for several other publications that pay me far more than this channel currently does (though we’re hoping to change that, besties!).

So I thought long and hard about how I could create a content series that was different, enjoyable to produce, slightly cheeky, and hopefully able to resonate with a broader audience.

After bouncing ideas around my brain and notebook for a while, I landed on one that I loved: a new video series in which I explore and present the best hotel rooms I stay in while wearing the apparel provided. “An intimate, dressed-down peek inside the world’s best luxury hotel suites and villas,” as the working tagline describes it.

After all, robes have always been one of my favorite hotel amenities. There’s nothing quite like slipping into a cozy, fluffy dressing gown or a lightweight, flowy kimono and fully relaxing in a luxurious suite. And these days, the styles, colors, and fabrics of hotel robes are increasingly used to express a property’s vibe and personality. So it makes total sense to me to feature these smart branding tools in any content showcasing a hotel’s interiors.

The name of the video series wrote itself: Robe Report. IYKYK. All that was left to do was start filming the content—which finally happened during my recent trip to Eden Roc Cap Cana, a two-Michelin-Key resort that’s one of the most sought-after destinations in the Dominican Republic.

It then took a while to edit and, finally, to post the finished product. But I got there, and the first edition (episode?) went live last week—check it out at this link or via the embed below! The short video provides a tour of the hotel’s vast two-bedroom villa, showcasing the different spaces, features, amenities, and—importantly to me—the design details that make this luxury accommodation unique and worth the price tag.

Luckily, the response to the post was overwhelmingly positive. Thank you to everyone on Instagram who watched, liked, shared, saved, commented, etc., and special thanks to those who have told me—both online and in person—that they love the concept and execution. Your encouragement really means a lot, particularly since so much time and effort went into conceptualizing and creating this. And now that I have a little validation, I’m planning to produce a whole series of similar videos, each spotlighting a different luxury hotel around the world.

To begin with, I’m aiming to post these videos every two weeks, with the hope that opportunities to film in the most lavish and decadent suites and villas around the world will keep increasing as time goes by. (If you’re a PR or hotelier interested in creating a bespoke video for your property, I’d love to hear from you!)

If you don’t already, I hope you’ll follow me on Instagram at @dahowarth and enjoy the forthcoming Robe Report episodes (I think I’ve landed on “episodes”), as well as more travel- and design-related content. Plus some personal updates, husband promotion, and cat videos, obviously.

If you only want travel content, then the dedicated @farflung.corners account may be more your vibe. Up to you! Either way, thank you immensely for your support.

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

All photography featured in Far-Flung Corners is my own, unless specified otherwise. Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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Our three nights in Menorca earlier this month flew by. We easily could’ve spread everything we saw and did over a full week, but we’re gluttons for cramming as much as possible into a short time frame. The island excels at laid-back hospitality in unique settings, and service almost always comes with a smile. At most of the restaurants, bars, and venues we visited, the door staff and servers were genuinely warm and welcoming—a refreshing change from the upturned noses or blank stares we encountered multiple times in Ibiza. There’s still a real sense of discovery here, rather than everyone piling into the same hotspots for bragging rights. We stumbled across some genuine gems that we’d happily return to next time—and there will absolutely be a next time!

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Zara Larsson puts it perfectly: it (finally) feels like EuroSummer™! Time for lotion-fragranced, sun-kissed skin. Scorching days that slip into balmy nights. Billowing linen worn over tight swimsuits. Sea salt in the hair and sand between the toes. Tinto de verano in the plazas and cervezas on the playas. You get the idea.

And you hopefully realize why, instead of celebrating July 4 and America’s 250th birthday in the States, we decided to spend this year’s Independence Day, erm, independently. Spain was a much more enticing option, so a large group of us convened in Madrid for four days of partying, bar crawls, drag performances, and the like during Pride. The Spanish capital, it turns out, is the real city that never sleeps.

After all that excitement and energy, we needed somewhere to decompress. Though I haven’t visited since I was a kid, I’d heard plenty of recent murmurs about Menorca being the perfect low-key, largely American-free escape. Plus, it’s a cheap, 90-minute Ryanair flight from Madrid. So we chose the Mediterranean island as our comedown destination for a few days.

Of the three main Balearic Islands, Mallorca is the grown-up, bougie, dramatically fabulous sister. Ibiza—as I’ve discussed before—is the young, carefree, hippie party animal. And Menorca? Until recently, the “middle sister” has remained quiet, demure, and family-oriented. But she’s finally showing more personality—or rather, she’s slowly being discovered by travelers outside the UK, Spain, and France.

Menorca’s relative obscurity is a huge blessing. Even in early July, when most of the Med is heaving, the island feels sleepy and laid-back. Much of its arid yet fertile landscape has remained untouched for centuries, development has been confined to a handful of small resorts, and the overall vibe feels far less showy and more authentic than that of its neighbors. Effortless, natural, and enticing.

Though Menorca is compact, and fairly flat compared to its sisters, the terrain makes it surprisingly tricky to get around. Countless steep ravines radiate from the center of the island to the sea, preventing the construction of a coastal ring road that would allow drivers to hop easily from one gorgeous beach or charming town to another. Instead, most roads connect to the main highway that runs from Maó—the capital, port, and airport hub in the southeast—to Ciutadella, the historic former capital in the northwest. It’s only about an hour’s drive from end to end, but most journeys on the few main roads elsewhere take much longer than you’d expect from glancing at a map.

It’s this topography that has produced Menorca’s famous calas—long, narrow coves framed by steep limestone cliffs and filled with shallow, crystal-clear water in the brightest shade of turquoise I have ever seen (and I’ve witnessed a lot of Miami apartment décor). Many of these secluded, sand-tipped spots can only be reached via a long hike, a popular past time for visitors here, and because driving between them isn’t especially convenient either, beach-hopping—our favorite EuroSummer™ activity—becomes surprisingly difficult.

So if you’re hoping to visit several of these aquamarine gems, particularly along the spectacular south coast, the best option is by boat. We booked a three-and-a-half-hour private cruise on a small, traditional Menorcan former fishing vessel one afternoon and set sail from Cala Galdana—which was the only overcrowded place we encountered, and frankly a nightmare for parking. Be warned!

Blasting a playlist we’d compiled of nostalgic late-2000s dance tracks (plus some Zara Larsson, obvi), we sailed past the chalky cliff faces, cruising from cala to cala. Noting their subtle differences, the aim was to find the most beautiful and secluded spots in which to stop and swim. We paused briefly for a dip at Cala Fustam before continuing west, bopping into several more bays, including Cala en Turqueta—named, our captain explained, after the Ottoman invasion of the island in 1558.

We eventually dropped anchor at Cala des Talaier, which was uncrowded and where the water looked unreal. But there was one little problem: jellyfish. We spotted one of the cheeky f*ckers as soon as we dived in, but while swimming toward shore, more appeared in front of our goggles and several people in our group got stung. Ouch. Nothing too serious, but enough to send us all scrambling back onto the boat fairly swiftly.

The jellies made themselves a nuisance again later that day while we were cliff jumping at Cala en Brut, a small cove our friends staying nearby had stumbled across. The inlet is surrounded by stepped concrete platforms used by local families as sunbathing terraces and launchpads for plunging several meters into the deep water. Between the natural beauty enhanced by the slowly setting sun, the squeals and laughter from jumpers and spectators, and the irony that the jellyfish had followed us there, this became one of the trip’s most memorable moments.

Back on dry land, the best luxury hotels across Menorca are hidden gems, too. Among the standouts are the twin Son Ermità and Binidufà estates in the north, a colorful location from the Experimental Group, and Torralbenc, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collective where we enjoyed our final dinner.

We spent our three nights at Santa Ponsa, part of the Fontenille Collection that also operates the property we stayed at in Provence, and another hotel I visited in Tuscany earlier this year. Santa Ponsa, a 17th-century finca in Menorca’s south, sits above a secluded valley of terraced gardens blooming with flowers planted between low stone walls and pathways surrounding a towering central palm. The silence was broken only by birdsong and the gentle trickle of water through irrigation channels. Wandering beneath plant-covered tunnels and through ancient stone arches to discover one beautiful garden after another was utterly enchanting.

The main hotel occupies a handsome dark-red building and was, erm, a little rustic when it came to the plumbing. The service also lacked a bit of joined-up thinking. But the idyllic setting and spectacular grounds more than compensated for any shortcomings.

Dining beneath the branches of giant trees at the hotel’s restaurant, Nura, was magically peaceful—whether enjoying a fresh salad at lunch, or the Monday tapas and paella night. The hotel’s outdoor pool sits above the terraced gardens, well away from the main buildings—both a blessing for the tranquility and a slight inconvenience if you forget your sunscreen or fancy ordering lunch (there is, however, an honesty bar stocked with chilled drinks). Meanwhile, the highly atmospheric indoor pool occupies a cavernous vaulted cistern naturally illuminated through a corner window. The light casts dramatic shadows from a staircase rising out of the water along the back wall. Overall, it’s utterly charming and a perfect place to unplug—just don’t expect the high-touch luxury found at many other five-star resorts.

We also managed to explore both of Menorca’s main cities. Ciutadella is wonderfully historic, with narrow streets winding between weathered medieval stone buildings that are perfect for wandering between stops at outdoor cafés, bars, and boutiques. Maó (or Mahón in Spanish) is more industrial, but still charming for a working port. Here, the international gallery Hauser & Wirth has established an outpost inside a former naval hospital on an island in the harbor, which we naturally had to visit—and stop for lunch at the restaurant. We also picked up traditional Avarca sandals from a small cobbler along the waterfront, who custom-made pairs of the simple leather or suede shoes to order.

One place that hinted at Menorca’s growing popularity was Cova d’en Xoroi, a bar and lounge perched on—and carved into—a dramatic cliff face in Cala en Porter. The word has clearly spread on social media that this is the place to dress up and watch the sunset, and the sprawling venue was packed with people primarily there to photograph themselves on a Monday evening. Inside the cave was hot and clammy, so our group found a spot on one of the terraces to enjoy our drinks, the view, and some excellent people-watching. Although we thought we’d bought tickets online but apparently forgot to actually hit “purchase,” it was worth the short wait to experience.

Menorca’s star is clearly on the rise, and the secret won’t stay hidden for much longer. It really does tick every box for a perfect EuroSummer™ getaway, and if you’re already in Western Europe, it’s incredibly easy to reach from most major cities.

Next time, we’ll come for a full week and properly soak up the languid pace, gorgeous landscapes, and exceptional food instead of zipping around trying to see as much as possible—as we inevitably tend to do on vacation. I’ll be sharing more of my Favorite Corners from across the island with paid subscribers in next week’s newsletter (please consider upgrading if you haven’t already!). And let me know if you’ve already experienced the Balearics’ “middle sister,” or have plans to visit soon. EuroSummer™ has only just begun!

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

All photography featured in Far-Flung Corners is my own, unless specified otherwise. Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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I feel like I say this every month, but June has been a busy one! It started in Miami, where Jonathan and I traveled specifically to see Rosalia in concert, only to find out shortly after we arrived that the show had been postponed. A major bummer, but we made the best of it! Since then, I’ve been away for a few days each week, from the tropical coast of the Dominican Republic to serene lakeside Michigan, and the scenic mountains of Colorado—all very different, but equally fun trips.

In between travels, the atmosphere in NYC has been electric. The Knicks turned even the least sporty among us into avid basketball fans, and those street celebrations seamlessly transitioned into Pride festivities. Meanwhile, the weather was consistently perfect for laying out at the pier or in the park. Exceptional vibes all around! My mayor is Muslim, my bagel Jewish etc, etc. And Eurosummer is just about to kick-off, too!!

Before then, allow me to share the corners of the world that I loved over the past month, as well as links to some of my recent articles for other publications to which I contribute (because this self-promo train won’t drive itself!).

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There’s a very sharp, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it line in HBO’s Hacks in which billionaire TV mogul Winnie Landell, played by Helen Hunt, says to a friend: “Ah, Marcia. You were wrong about that Aman. It was shit.” This is probably only funny to those familiar with the ultra-uber-extra-luxury hospitality brand, whose hotels are considered some of the most exclusive, high-design properties in the world. Obviously, I’ve been dying to visit one for as long as I’ve known they existed. Minimalist architecture plus luxury travel? So on-brand for me! I wrote about the New York location’s opening for Dezeen, and later went for lunch and a tour, but I was not shown—let alone invited to stay in—any of the rooms. Because, y’know, it’s just so exclusive.

Of Aman’s 36 resorts across 20 countries, the most famous is arguably Amangiri. Hidden in the Utah desert, just north of the Arizona border and close to natural wonders like the Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, and many more, the hotel has gained an almost mythical status thanks to its celebrity and ultra-high-net-worth guests, astounding architectural quality and natural setting, and almost ridiculous price tag: upwards of $5,000 per night for the lowest room category. The brand has basically become a cult for the uber-wealthy; self-proclaimed “Amanjunkies” who aim to visit every resort, collect the luggage tags, and proudly sport the merch at every opportunity.

Sounds pretentious? Absolutely. But when the invitation to experience Amangiri’s new six-bedroom villa landed in my inbox, I don’t think I’ve ever replied faster. I simply had to see what all the fuss was about. Plus, I’ve already harped on about my desert fixation, so this seemed like a fitting place to lose my Aman virginity.

Forever the cynical Brit, I was highly skeptical of the hype. As with any hotel that’s plastered all over social media, I wonder if the experience will actually live up to the pristine visuals and offer a genuine sense of place. There’s a lot of style over substance out there these days. And while I’m all for ultra-luxury hotels, is anything really worth that much money? Is it truly going to be that much better than every other five-star resort I’ve ever stayed at? As the trip drew closer, my presumption that I’d be underwhelmed only grew. I was ready to go scorched earth on this desert hideaway. But oh boy, were my expectations set alight.

Flying over the rust-hued rock formations from Phoenix to Page, Arizona, offers a brief taster of what’s to come (and a welcome reminder that, despite its misgivings, America has great bones). But after driving over the Glen Canyon Dam and crossing into Utah—and a different time zone, confusingly—the formations become ever more imposing, sculptural, and striated. The colors shift from dark reds to soft sands, but are no less dramatic. Then, from among the desert rocks, the minimalist structures of Amangiri emerge like a futuristic Petra.

The shadows cast by the intense sunlight create dramatic, highly intentional patterns and geometries across the pigmented concrete. The main swimming pool wraps around a giant rock outcrop and looks like an AI rendering, while the monastic spa transports visitors to a higher plane. Everything, from the sumptuous chocolate-colored bathrobes to the smallest design details, just oozes money.

Yes, I expected the architectural quality, the remoteness, and the tranquility. But what was unexpected—in the best possible way—was the hotel’s connection to the land, its Native peoples, and their culture. The property’s 900 acres across the Colorado Plateau border the Navajo Nation, and the history and presence of this Indigenous community are highlighted and celebrated throughout the resort, rather than ignored—or worse, bastardized or devalued.

A short 20-minute hike from the hotel lies a huge cave where several prehistoric artifacts have been discovered, from arrowheads that give the feature its name to preserved corn husks. Ancient drawings carved into the stone (sadly accompanied by some contemporary graffiti) demonstrate just how long this landscape has been inhabited, and the scale of the cave—which can only be accessed on a guided tour—is deeply humbling. Broken Arrow Cave is also where artist-in-residence Ulrike Arnold creates her earth artworks using soil collected on-site, sweeping the colorful pigments across canvases to create large-scale paintings that adorn the hotel’s walls.

Then there are the slot canyons, which have become Instagram-famous for their water-sculpted pink walls and shafts of sunlight that beam into their narrow passages. Antelope Canyon is the most visited—and the line outside when we arrived was terrifying. But thankfully we were treated to an exclusive tour of the equally spectacular Coyote, Rattlesnake, and Owl canyons by Raymond, a Native American guide who infused local myth and lore into his geology lessons. The canyons are considered deeply spiritual spaces, and the continuous erosion is seen as a lesson in impermanence.

These canyons informed much of the inspiration for the new Amangiri villa in which we were fortunate enough to stay for three nights. Architect Marwan Al-Sayed and interior designer Mies Anderson of Los Angeles-based Masastudio, which collaborated on the original Amangiri, referenced the canyons’ light shafts when creating hidden voids and skylights throughout the residence. Meanwhile, a central oculus above the huge dining table appears to have been eroded by the elements—much like the hoodoo rock formations in the surrounding landscape—and was inspired by a Navajo prayer titled Walking in Beauty. More design details can be found in my Dezeen article.

One evening, as the sun dipped below the rocks, we were treated to a private music and dance performance by a local group of brothers from the Red Heritage Indigenous Center in Page. The trio were clearly delighted to be there and eager to share their cultural heritage with us. They showcased several styles of powwow and hoop dancing, while wearing traditional garments that they had impressively made themselves. Their leader, Tomas Hunt, stayed for dinner, giving us the opportunity to talk more about life for Native Americans in this part of the country.

Later that night, their mother arrived for fireside story time, and boy, did she have some tales to tell. She spoke about everything from local lore and prayer—including the meaning behind Walking in Beauty—to the plight of her people and the horrific treatment they have faced throughout history. She also explained that Diné—not Navajo—is her people’s preferred name. I could have listened to her speak all night.

Capping off the trip was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had—and likely ever will have. An early morning helicopter ride with Papillon took us over Horseshoe Bend and Lake Powell before ascending to the summit of Tower Butte, a 5,287-foot sandstone formation with tear-inducing 360-degree views across the landscape. Waiting for us at the top was breakfast.

How the hotel team managed to get a cornucopia-style spread of fruit and pastries, coffee and juice—not to mention themselves—all the way up there in time, I will never know. I absolutely welled up a couple of times with pure joy and awe as I nibbled my croissant and gazed out across the desert. The flight back was equally exhilarating as we soared above the canyons while listening to power rock through our headsets.

If this was the Aman that Winnie Landell was talking about in Hacks, she was completely wrong and has terrible taste. Between the exclusive access to extraordinary natural sites and the beautifully personal conversations with Indigenous locals, this was an exceptional and genuinely life-changing trip that I’ll remember forever. For this, I’d happily pay upwards of $5,000 per night, if I could afford to do so. I’m going to need a LOT more Substack subscribers for that! Hehe.

After only one visit, I can’t quite call myself an Amanjunkie yet—I’ll patiently wait for more invitations. (Amankora in Bhutan, Amanera in the Dominican Republic, and the forthcoming Amangati yacht are currently top of my list for anyone from the PR team reading this *wink*.) But I am certainly hooked.

And yes, I have my Amangiri luggage tag proudly displayed on my suitcase, and I take my Amangiri water bottle to the gym as a low-key flex. Sue me!

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

All photography featured in Far-Flung Corners is my own, unless specified otherwise. Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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To begin, I’d like to wish a very happy 100th birthday to one of my all-time heroes, Sir David Attenborough. His groundbreaking BBC documentaries opened my eyes to the wonders of the natural world as a child, and will never cease to thrill, soothe, and inspire me today. I put on Planet Earth whenever I want to relax, as a reminder of the beauty of the world and the mind-blowing variety of life we share it with. I’ve watched every episode countless times, and of all the places to which Sir David and his intrepid production crews have traveled, the one that I never imagined I would get to experience myself was the Amazon.

Endless mystery surrounds this vast river system and the surrounding rainforest, and many myths (and truths) are associated with the peoples and wildlife one might encounter there. For years I’ve heard of flesh-eating fish (true!), aquatic creatures that swim up urine streams (myth!), and tribes that have never had contact with the rest of society (lucky them!). Meanwhile, movies like Anaconda play on the peril associated with the creatures that lurk in the Amazonian waters, while even sweet Paddington Bear originated from remote, unexplored “Darkest Peru”—a term we no longer use.

When I received the email inviting me on a small group trip to explore this mystical wilderness with Abercrombie & Kent, I’ll admit I shed a few tears of excitement. A journey on the luxury tour operator’s brand-new Pure Amazon riverboat would take us deep into the Peruvian Amazon, to search for wildlife, learn about the ecology of this beguiling place, and relax on this luxurious vessel in between. I was poised to experience my own episode of Planet Earth—in style, no less!

Journeying into the Amazon

The expedition began in Lima, where we spent a whirlwind 24 hours “acclimatizing” and learning about Peruvian culture. On an overcast day, a guided art walk took us past the bright murals of the Barranco neighborhood, we mixed pisco sours to the soundtrack of live Huyano folk music at boutique Hotel B, then dined at moodily lit Xoma on a seafood menu that included tiger-milk scallops that I still dream about. To cap a packed day, we made one quick final stop for late-night cocktails at sci-fi-inspired Lady Bee—a consistent climber on the World’s 50 Best Bars list.

The next morning, we swapped the arid Pacific coast for the northeast rainforest, as we flew less than two hours to the regional hub of Iquitos. As soon as we landed, the air weighed 10 times thicker and engulfed us in heat and moisture, so we quickly boarded our little, thankfully air-conditioned bus for a long, bumpy ride to the river port of Nauta.

Darkness had fallen by the time we arrived at the Abercrombie & Kent terminal, a small, thatched wooden building in which we finalized our registrations, and collected our lifejackets, torches, and wellington boots. Bats flitted around the roof while a man watched TV under a fluorescent light next door, as we descended to the water to board the fleet of narrow skiff boats. These would take us across the vast Marañón River, which joins the Ucayali River just a few miles downstream to become the mighty Amazon, to our glowing, glamorous vessel on the opposite bank.

All Aboard the Pure Amazon

Our welcome onto the Pure Amazon was a joyous, raucous celebration for which none of us were quite prepared. The entire crew greeted us with music, singing, and dancing—as well as much-needed refreshing drinks and cool towels—as we filed one by one past our equipment lockers, and into the bar lounge that would become our informal expedition HQ. Designed by Milan-based architect Adriana Granato, of Studio Ibsen, the boat’s interiors were minimally yet warmly decorated, with accents of dark wood, deep green, and bright orange. Subtle contextual nods included patterned textiles, and wall-mounted ceramic tiles evocative of the scales of the elusive giant paiche—one of the world’s largest freshwater fish and a resident of these waters.

My quarters for the four-night voyage were surprisingly spacious, offering plenty of room to unpack and store away my belongings, work at the small desk, and lounge in front of the fully glazed facade stretching across the bedroom and bathroom. Staring out at the ever-shifting view as the boat sailed slowly along the river was so soothing, though some small boats did pass by while I was showering beside the glass—but none seemed to notice or care. A king-sized bed granted me a deep sleep each night, and it was a thrill to wake up each morning and see where we’d parked for the day.

Skiff Expeditions

In October, at the tail end of the low-water season, our movements were somewhat restricted around Pacaya Samiria National Reserve—a sprawling five-million-acre protected area in Peru’s Loreto region and one of the world’s largest flooded forests. Each evening, our riverboat journeyed to a new location, and nightly briefings from our expert guides—Hulber, Robinson, and Javier, all highly qualified naturalists—outlined the next day’s route and activities. These involved multiple skiff excursions through rivers and tributaries in search of wildlife including pink dolphins, sloths, capybaras, monkeys, and a dazzling variety of birdlife, from kingfishers to hawks. Sir David would have been proud.

The early morning skiff rides were my favorite, rising at dawn to gear up and board the skiffs while the light was still dim and the temperature still bearable. Feeling the fresh breeze whip around us was exhilarating as we sped across the vast river, heading towards its tree-lined banks and navigating into the narrower waterways where the most wildlife could be found. Our guides’ eagle eyes—and ears—were astonishing: spotting sloths asleep high in the canopy and hearing monkeys moving through the trees hundreds of feet away. Occasionally, we’d stop to meet fishermen who would show us the catfish and roe they’d caught, and wave as we passed families farming on the banks.

The dolphins needed no pointing out. We frequently saw them surface close to the skiffs, and watched them splash from the boat’s decks and windows. For bird lovers, this place was paradise. Stark white egrets cut elegant silhouettes against the dark greenery as they waited patiently on bankside logs, kingfishers darted from branch to branch, parrots flew in formation overhead, and birds of prey scanned the landscape from the lofty trunks of dead trees. Our skiff’s night excursion proved less fruitful, but slowly meandering through the narrow channels under torchlight was magical regardless (one of the boats caught a glimpse of a capybara wading in the shallows though).

Kayaks, Parakeets, & Piranhas

Between wildlife excursions, we also had opportunities to take part in activities on and around the water. While kayaking across an expansive lake, we watched hundreds of cormorants take flight—straight out of a Planet Earth episode—and during a fishing trip, every one of us caught a piranha, which were considerably smaller than I had imagined. One afternoon, a short jungle walk led us beneath a dense forest canopy, past enormous banyan trees draped with roots, to a peaceful pond blooming with giant Victoria water lilies.

Another morning, we visited a riverside village where residents live in temporary stilted homes to accommodate rising waters, often relocating entirely when the river changes course. Families warmly greeted us, selling handcrafts made from folded grasses, while an adorable child followed us around with a parakeet perched on his head. Grocery stores stocked familiar snacks, and an empty nightclub blasted bass-heavy reggaeton in the middle of the afternoon. Most striking of all were the campaign posters for Peru’s upcoming elections—oddly tethering this remote corner of the world to national politics.

Life On Board

“Cruise food” is notoriously mediocre, but we were truly spoiled aboard the Pure Amazon. Breakfast and lunch buffets overflowed with tropical fruit (don’t even get me started on the mangoes), pastries, and savory dishes. Each evening, meanwhile, brought a five-course dinner with wine pairings featuring elevated takes on local cuisine: endless varieties of Peruvian potatoes, regional fish with subtly spiced sauces, and beautifully plated grains, greens, pulses, and root vegetables. How they managed to source and prepare all this on a boat remains another Amazonian mystery.

Beyond the 12 cabin suites on the middle deck and the back-of-house areas, the boat also housed a library of resources including wildlife encyclopaedias and even skulls of some monkey species. There was a small gym that I don’t think anyone used, and, of course, a small gift shop that I scoffed at as we boarded, but from which I almost bought a soft-toy sloth by the end. Best of all, there were two very well-stocked bars serving just 22 guests, and the bartenders enthusiastically mixed pisco sours, gin and tonics, martinis, and more whenever requested.

We enjoyed our drinks during the briefings on the lower deck, while relaxing in the upper deck lounge, and in the open-air hot tub at the boat’s stern. It was from here, soaking in the bubbling water, that we witnessed some of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve ever seen. Dark clouds streaked and billowed across the brightest orange sky that slowly shifted to purple as light dwindled—all of which was also reflected in the vast expanses of water that give Pacaya Samiria the nickname “Forest of Mirrors.” Proudly, one of my sunset photos even made the cover of Luxury Travel Advisor’s Spring 2026 print issue, with many thanks to editor Cameron Sperance!

Saving This Fragile Ecosystem

On the bus ride back to Iquitos—and ever since—I haven’t stopped fretting about the future of the richly diverse ecosystem I was privileged to explore. The Amazon is facing severe, interconnected threats that are pushing the ecosystem toward a dangerous tipping point. Deforestation for commercial farming, illegal mining, plus flooding, droughts, and fires exacerbated by climate change are compounding one another, and together could spell global disaster. The lungs of our world are being choked, and far too little is being done to stop it.

I witnessed firsthand the Peruvian Amazon’s unprecedented drought conditions and record-low water levels, which are isolating Indigenous communities reliant on the river for food, medicine, and essential supplies. Pink dolphin populations are plummeting, while species from jaguars and giant river otters to harpy eagles remain critically endangered.

I rarely encourage more tourism to a destination—many issues of this newsletter have lamented over-tourism—but I genuinely believe more people should witness wildlife in its natural habitat. Watching Planet Earth is one thing, but seeing these creatures with your own eyes and immediately hearing about their struggles is something else entirely.

That said, don’t simply show up in the jungle. Trips like this should be undertaken with responsible operators like Abercrombie & Kent, which fairly compensate staff, support local communities, and are invested in protecting the environment both financially and through education. Plus, everyone wearing an A&K shirt—from airport porters and bus drivers to Emily, our endlessly bubbly Pure Amazon host—was warm, knowledgeable, and deeply invested in the guest experience.

Of course, very few people can afford such an adventure. But since those with the means—and influence—to change global systems often can, I hope more might choose a journey like this over yet another yacht trip to Mykonos or Saint Barths. The river cruise was just as luxurious, but had much more substance and purpose. Perhaps then they’d better understand the fragility of our natural world, and the consequences of corporate greed and resource depletion elsewhere. We all need to become better stewards of this planet, and travel to places like the Amazon can inspire us to ask an important question: WWDAD—What Would David Attenborough Do?

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

All photography featured in Far-Flung Corners is my own, unless specified otherwise. Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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My Italian adventure last month encompassed stays at no less than five hotels across Tuscany: from a rural bolthole to a coastal escape; a city crash-pad to the Ferragamo family’s former estate (such a hard job, I know!). The journey wasn’t all glamorous—cut to me lugging three heavy bags through the cobbled streets of Milan and Florence, and up the stairs of several non-ADA-compliant train stations. But every time I arrived at a destination, the beauty and serenity of this idyllic part of the world quickly melted away any travel stress.

While I considered writing a full review for each of these spots, I thought it would be more useful and efficient to summarize all of them together in one post. So, here we are! Read on for my thoughts on everywhere I stayed in Tuscany…

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A purposefully ambiguous line of text opens the film adaptation of Call Me By Your Name: “Somewhere in Northern Italy.” Just before leaving for the country last month, I borrowed it for the subject line of my out-of-office reply, since I’d be moving around so much. (It also felt like a fitting title for this issue, for the same reason.) It was clever of the 2017 movie’s director, Luca Guadagnino, to keep the location vague—had he been more specific, the tiny village and its surroundings used during shooting would likely be overrun today with “set-jetters” seeking out filming spots from their favorite scenes.

While CMBYN was largely filmed in Lombardy, my destination happened to be nearby Tuscany, which, according to several locals I spoke to, has another film’s success to thank for its popularity. The 2003 rom-com Under the Tuscan Sun, starring Diane Lane as a divorcée who impulsively buys a crumbling villa, firmly put the region on the map for American tourists. More than two decades later, Tuscany is by far Italy’s most visited region. Some arrive in search of their own love story, while others come simply to bask in the postcard-perfect countryside they’ve seen on screen. In fairness, there’s also the art museums of Florence, the engineering mishap in Pisa, and countless more world-famous cultural sites to entice such a large amount of tourists.

Most years, I travel to Milan for the city’s annual design week in April, and use the opportunity to explore other parts of the country while I’m there. Previous two- or three-night detours have taken me to Cinque Terre, the Amalfi coast, and Lake Como—all incredible, and also all touristy! This year, I coincidently received invitations for group trips to visit two luxury Tuscan hotels either side of Milan’s Salone, and generous offers from other properties in the area to fill the gaps in my individual itinerary. So I was able to spin this into a 2.5-week adventure that encompassed a large swathe of Italy’s emblematic rural region.

I’ll be honest, Tuscany was not my first choice. Crowds aside, I try to prioritize new destinations whenever I possibly can, and I’d already visited many of the region’s cities—first on a school arts trip, and again when I returned for a wedding in 2024. But if there’s ever a perfect time to go, it’s late April, when the weather is typically warm and sunny, the days are longer, and it’s still relatively quiet. This year’s itinerary would also take me to parts of Tuscany that I hadn’t yet explored, including several beautifully remote hotels set in striking country and seaside landscapes that I’d heard many great things about.

I flew from Newark to Malpensa on all-business-class airline La Compagnie, and the lay-flat seat, attentive service, multiple glasses of champagne, and actually edible food made the red-eye far more pleasant than previous years stuffed into economy. Then, from the cavernous marble halls of Milano Centrale to single-platform countryside stations and back again, I crisscrossed northern Italy—taking a train every few days. As rolling fields, medieval hilltop villages, and grand villas with cypress-lined driveways straight out of Gladiator flashed past my carriage windows, I jotted down my thoughts from each previous stop. I’ll break down the individual properties and stays for paid subscribers next week (upgrade above if you’re curious!). But for now, some general musings…

Chianti is jaw-droppingly beautiful

As the first stop on my trip, the famous wine region across the hilly landscape between Florence and Siena really set the bar high. My nose was practically pressed against the car window as we wound through the Chianti countryside around our hotel, Pieve Aldina. Passing dramatic valleys laced with olive groves and vineyards, and tiny hilltop towns that looked like paintings, the landscape appeared untouched for centuries—a perfect encapsulation of a simpler time. After a fascinating visit to one of only a few remaining terracotta producers in the region, a delicious pasta dinner at a family-run trattoria, and wine-tasting and cooking classes at Pieve that were both educational and very fun, I already felt as if I was seeing a different, more nuanced side of Tuscany.

Siena’s cultural history is captivatingly unique

On a day trip to Siena, we visited a museum dedicated to, and run by, one of the city’s 17 contrade (neighborhood factions), which compete in the twice-yearly Palio horse race around the central Piazza del Campo. Featured in the opening sequence of 2008 James Bond film Quantum of Solace (lots of movie references in this issue!), I only had a vague understanding of the event. So it was eye-opening to hear directly from a member of the Tortuga (tortoise) contrada, who spoke in detail about the centuries of the history and traditions, passionately described fierce rivalries, and recalled dramatic race victories. Afterwards, we even caught a glimpse of Tortuga’s blue and yellow colors spinning through the air during a flag-throwing practice in preparation for this summer’s Palio festivities.

The Tuscan coast is not to be missed

The harbor town of Porto Ercole was one of my favorite stops on the trip—partly because it offered a much-needed pause immediately after the frenzy of Milan design week. Located on the Monte Argentario peninsula, this charming little port is accessed via a single causeway and therefore not the easiest to reach. It’s not as strikingly beautiful as Positano or Portofino, but that may be its saving grace. With only two luxury hotels in or close to the town—Il Pellicano, and La Roqqa where I stayed—and a largely Roman summer crowd, it’s blissfully quiet in the spring.

I found its small size and slow pace to be utterly disarming, as I wandered through the narrow switch-back streets of the fortified medieval town, and found no wait for dinner at a bayside pizzeria where I wolfed down a very satisfying Diavola. Not to mention the nearby Isolotto Beach Club, found at the end of a steep track down the verdant mountainside. Its rows of loungers were neatly arranged on grassy terraces that stepped down to crystal-clear waters lapping the rocky shore, just like in Amalfi—though this spot was practically deserted so early in the season. Overall, I felt like I’d discovered a little slice of heaven that I had almost all to myself.

Climate change is affecting world-famous produce

While out truffle hunting with Tuscan farmer Gianluca and his expert canine fungus-finder, Rosa, we learned about the agricultural history of the delicacy as well as the current challenges brought on by the changing climate. Shifting seasons have forced some farmers into naturally cultivating the precious resource, rather than only foraging in the wild, and greater competition between farms is even eliciting sabotage.

A similar story emerged during a wine tasting at Castiglion del Bosco the following day, when the sommelier revealed how unpredictable weather patterns are threatening the production of Brunello di Montalcino—the region’s famous red (of which we consumed several bottles of during our stay). In 2015, a large proportion of the crop was destroyed by a freak hail storm in August, while 2021 was the second-driest year in the last 30 and emergency irrigation system had to be introduced to protect the vines. A stark reminder that climate change is afflicting every part of the world.

Authentic Tuscany still exists—if you’re willing to search for it

On our last night at Castiglion del Bosco, and the final night of my trip altogether, we cozied up in our villa’s den and watched—you guessed it—Under the Tuscan Sun. As the movie played, I realized how much I’d grown to better understand and appreciate this world-renowned region during my relatively brief stay. Beyond the historic cities and idyllic countryside, Tuscany’s allure is the magic and romance of its languid lifestyle, flavorful food, and passionate people. Who wouldn’t want a slice of that?

The key is to slip away from the over-visited sites, and find opportunities to connect with local experts and support family-run businesses. Across the region, countless charming hotels and villas—set in former monasteries, castles, farmhouses, and borgos—offer exactly that. So whether you’re enticed to Northern Italy by Under The Tuscan Sun or Call Me By Your Name (wait, can someone produce a hybrid: historic Italian villa restoration and gay yearning?!), or another reason entirely, I encourage you to seek out the “somewheres” that others may not have discovered yet.

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more. Love, D x

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While I spent time “resetting” in the barren vastness of California’s High Desert, I was, of course, also on the hunt for standout spots to dine and drink. These oases of good food were admittedly few and far between—but that only made each discovery more rewarding. Natural beauty, on the other hand, was so abundant that choosing where best to take it in proved the real challenge. Over four days in September 2025, during my stays at Hotel Wren and then Reset Hotel, these are the highlights I uncovered…

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As the day’s first light creeps over the mountains, the soft dawn glow draws out the red-purple hues of the arid, rocky landscape. Next to my bed, the window cut-out from the metal container frames the silhouetted ridgeline, and the eerie quiet of night remains even as the sun continues to rise. This could easily be the opening for a sci-fi novel, but it was actually my experience waking up at Reset Hotel. A new 65-key property on the outskirts of Twentynine Palms, in the High Desert of California, this otherworldly property is an experiment in architectural and spatial efficiency. Its wilderness setting invites guests to slow down and mentally refresh as they appreciate the rugged beauty.

The hotel is set on 180 acres that directly abut Joshua Tree National Park, and is just minutes from its official North Entrance. A decision was taken early on to build only on a 10-acre parcel of the available plot that’s closest to the town. This way, the openness of the land and sky, the scale of the mountainous backdrop, and the silence of the setting all remain unspoiled. I spent just one night at Reset Hotel back in October 2025, but it was a highly impactful 24 hours. Continue reading for the full story!

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Wandering the desert in search of inner peace is all well and good—but if that serenity is shattered by a noisy, chaotic environment the moment you return to your lodgings, the whole exercise becomes pointless. During my trip to California’s High Desert in September 2025, when the goal was to clear my head, I needed somewhere calm and quiet to stay after long stretches of driving and hiking around Joshua Tree National Park. The newly opened Hotel Wren in Twentynine Palms proved to be the perfect oasis and remained, for the most part, almost monastically quiet during my two-night stay—which only heightened the experience.

The lack of on-site amenities actually worked in its favor: no clattering dishes in a restaurant, no music drifting from a bar, no late-night chatter. Those things are available nearby if you want them. Even better, the adults-only policy meant no screaming kids or splashing around the pool. Instead, lowered voices, quiet reading, sunbathing, midday siestas, and early nights were the rhythm for both me and my fellow guests—allowing the silence of the surrounding desert to settle over the property. An hour’s drive from Palm Springs through barren landscapes and quirky desert towns—and just 10 minutes from the park’s North Entrance—this boutique hideaway felt like a world unto itself. Keep reading for the details.

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There’s a good reason why, 2,000 or so years ago, the world’s most famous Palestinian Jew dropped everything and headed into the Judean wilderness for 40 days and 40 nights to mull over life’s meaning. It wasn’t just geographical convenience—the desert offered space and very few distractions; it was somewhere to properly disconnect. (There was also something about resisting temptation, but that’s not relevant here, so we’ll skip over it.) The fact is, the desert is a great place to think—or to clear the mind entirely. Either way, it offers a chance to reset before returning to the real world.

In today’s chaotic, relentless, and at times completely overwhelming world, I imagine most of us could benefit from a reset now and again. Mine came last September, when a perfect storm of looming deadlines, the financial pressures of freelancing, a heap of self-doubt, and an increasingly bleak news cycle (particularly in the region mentioned above) combined into a surge of stress. Nothing catastrophic—everything was technically manageable—but like a misbehaving electronic device, I decided to try switching myself off, waiting a few beats, and turning back on again in the hope I’d reboot feeling refreshed. Or, sticking with the storm metaphor: I needed time to dry out. And where better to do that than the notoriously moisture-free desert?

I didn’t have 40 days to spare (who does, Jesus?), so I settled for four and flew to Palm Springs. A drive north, then east, took me into California’s High Desert and eventually to Twentynine Palms. Once a one-horse town, its proximity to Joshua Tree National Park has made it an increasingly trendy getaway for reset-seekers like me. True wilderness is hard to find these days (or wildly expensive), and since Twentynine Palms is less crowded than other desert destinations, it felt like the right compromise. It also, for the record, has far more than 29 palms.

Extreme solitude isn’t actually required for a reset. Easy access to the wilds of Joshua Tree is more than enough to rewire the brain, refocus energy, and realign priorities. I spent the first two nights at Hotel Wren, a former roadside motel recently transformed by Manola Studio into a chic, 12-room, adults-only oasis. It was the perfect setting to begin my mental offload—lounging by the central pool, eating breakfast beside towering aloes, or unwinding in the private patio behind my room.

Hotel Wren is just a few miles from Joshua Tree’s north entrance, and within 20 minutes you can reach a scorched, boulder-strewn landscape that feels otherworldly. While popular formations like Skull Rock, Split Rock, and Arch Rock draw crowds, there are plenty of remote trails if solitude is your aim. Some spots require perfect timing to fully appreciate them, and on my first morning I woke before sunrise to catch one. Driving deep into the park, I arrived at a vast basin dotted with alien-like cholla cacti. As the sun crests the mountains, dawn light filters through their delicate spines, making them appear to glow. For 30 magical minutes, I felt transported somewhere beyond reality—until the temperature began climbing and it was time to move on. The memory, though, has lingered.

Later that day, after downtime by the pool, I decided to complete the circle with a sunset hike. Research suggested Ryan Mountain—one of the park’s highest peaks—offered the best vantage point, so I ambitiously tackled the steep climb. I don’t typically recommend solo hiking, but this was a well-marked trail and I came prepared. The 360-degree views were well worth the effort, as the landscape shifted from beige and tan to deep reds and purples beneath a similarly dramatic sky. Getting down, however, was trickier. Who knew it gets dark after sunset? Thank heavens for my mountain-goat agility and iPhone flashlight, because it was touch-and-go for a minute. But I made it without incident. My reward? Pizza Hut, the only place open late on a Wednesday night in Twentynine Palms.

My second stay, at the aptly named Reset Hotel, was as close to spending the night on Mars as perhaps I’ll ever get. Set on expansive land at the foot of the mountains, the property comprises shipping-container-like structures housing minimalist rooms and forming communal spaces. The concept for Reset came from Ben Uyeda, whose thoughtful approach continues to shape the desert landscape with respect. Meanwhile, the interiors and branding were designed by local firm Gry Space, who kindly met me on-site to share their vision.

The afternoon of my arrival, Ben invited me to a sunset “rock throwing” party, which was exactly as it sounds. He was building a sculptural moon-watching pad on the property and needed to fill its circular form with stones before pouring concrete. So he gathered friends—and me—and turned it into a community event complete with drinks, wings, snacks, and even homemade “rock” cakes that someone brought along. This wasn’t on my desert-disconnect agenda, and I initially hesitated attending. But I’m so glad I went, because it reminded me that community and connection can be just as restorative as solitude.

Though the moon pad wasn’t finished, I did stare up at the desert sky while soaking in my outdoor tub that night. Humans don’t typically enjoy feeling small and insignificant, but I find that it helps put things into perspective. In the vast openness of the desert, gazing into infinite space, I’m just a speck of matter worrying about deadlines or whether my Substack matters. Nothing compares to desert stargazing for this purpose.

Both sharing beers with strangers and spending time completely alone helped me disconnect and recalibrate. You’ll be happy to hear that my reset was a resounding success! On my drive back from the High Desert, I already felt a weight off my shoulders, and by the time I landed in NYC, I was clear-headed enough to tackle each of my challenges one by one.

I very much hope you’re not feeling stressed, anxious, overwhelmed—or worse, all of the above. But in today’s fraught society, no one can blame you for it. And perhaps it’s time for your own reset. We may have just missed the start of Lent, but it’s never too late to take time for yourself. Go wander in the desert for a few days—or even 40, if you can. I promise you’ll feel better for it.

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Far-Flung Corners is currently accepting pitches and partnership opportunities. If you own or represent a hotel or destination that you think would be a great fit for the publication, or would like to explore options for bespoke content, please get in touch!

Don’t forget to follow @farflung.corners on Instagram for more photos, updates, musings, and more.

My big beef with online “guides” is that they send everyone to the same spots, which can ultimately spoil why each spot was enjoyable in the first place. So welcome to my version of a destination guide! Before we go any further, this is not intended to be treated as a guide, per se. It’s simply a collection of places that I enjoyed visiting and photographing beyond the hotels during a trip—in this case, to the Sonoma Coast in Northern California last August. Maybe I loved a particular dish, became enchanted by the atmosphere, appreciated the service, or felt flattered by the bathroom lighting. Perhaps I simply found a spot to sit for a while and watch the world go by. Hopefully all of the above!

This is intended to encourage you, dearest readers, to go out and find your own Favorite Corners during your travels. If you do decide to visit any of the locations I’ve listed (because you trust my taste?), I’m never going to stop you. But I hope you’ll go into any with the intention to learn inquisitively, ask courteously, and enjoy respectfully.

For this particular edition, which rounds out Issue 013, the majority of the entries below were chosen by the fabulous Liddy Parlato and the team at Flowers Winery. I can therefore take zero credit for their discovery, and only say thank you for being invited and included. Find the full list below the fold.

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Will I ever stop talking about Sea Ranch? Probably not. Those who read my essay from this Issue have already heard me wax lyrical about the marvels of this modernist enclave, which stretches 4,000 acres along a remote section of the rugged Sonoma Coast in Northern California. But I specifically want to highlight a key component: the iconic hotel and community center around which my all-too-brief visit in August 2025 revolved. This was the second overnight stop on a group trip with locally based Flowers Winery, after a quick stay at The Madrona in Healdsburg, and a gorgeous vineyard tour and lunch. The Sea Ranch Lodge offered a completely different experience—one I won’t forget in a hurry.

The lodge first opened in 1964 as both a hub for local residents and accommodation for visitors, and includes a bar, lounge, cafe, dining area, general store and post office in one building, and guest rooms in another right next door. Both wooden structures were renovated and reopened in 2022, allowing outsiders to share in the magic of this unique community (which is otherwise tricky, since the average home value is over $1.3 million). There are few true modernist icons that guests can spend the night in, so those who’ve had the privilege to stay at The Sea Ranch Lodge—myself now included—can count themselves incredibly lucky!

The full review continues below.

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When San Francisco–based interior designer Jay Jeffers first toured a historic hillside estate on the outskirts of Healdsburg, Northern California, his initial reaction was: “What is this crazy, magical place—and how do I not know anything about it?” He shared the story with an intimate group of us in The Madrona’s periwinkle-hued parlor, a space that perfectly demonstrates his unbridled imagination. As both designer and co-owner of the property, Jeffers has restored the glamour to the estate through his signature maximalist style, which is certainly not for everyone—but that’s part of the allure.

Just three years after reopening, The Madrona’s reputation as a must-visit Wine Country escape is now internationally recognized, and the hotel has become something of a poster child for the upper reaches of Sonoma County. This was my first stop on a whirlwind trip around the region with Flowers Winery, conveniently located just five minutes down the road. Although I spent less than 24 hours here, the conversation with Jeffers offered deep insight into his vision for the property—and what guests can expect when they enter this whimsical world.

Here’s what I thought…

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“Never meet your heroes,” the saying goes. That’s probably sound advice when it comes to celebrities—particularly these days—but what about buildings? Whether or not you consider architectural structures “icons,” as I do, several famous buildings and monuments are likely to appear on travelers’ “bucket lists” (a phrase I’m banning from here on out, FYI), and I’d bet that more man-made structures than natural wonders appear on many. We have to admit, the chance of seeing certain skyscrapers, monuments, places of worship, and standalone follies IRL gets us excited.

The Sex and the City scene when Carrie Bradshaw squeals with delight upon spotting the Eiffel Tower from her hotel balcony (at the Plaza Athénée, no less) is forever burned into my brain as a perfect example of architecture-induced glee. No shade: her reaction is totally relatable. But why do artfully stacked piles of bricks, carefully arranged stones, or, in the French capital’s case, expertly welded lengths of iron elicit so much fervor and emotion from us? Put simply: humans can’t get enough of their own ingenuity.

Buildings represent some of humanity’s most impressive achievements, and many famous examples have become emblematic of the city or country in which they stand. They’re at once symbols of culture and anchors for orientation, and therefore naturally form the backbone of most sightseeing itineraries. Almost every major city has at least one landmark structure, after all. Those who’ve longed to visit Rome will inevitably stop at the Colosseum, and first-timers in Beijing will no doubt work-in a tour of the Forbidden City. The Sagrada Familia is Barcelona’s most visited site by far—and it’s not even finished.

Whether getting up close, peeking inside, or admiring from afar as part of a skyline or landscape, we’re certainly willing to spend a lot of money to see our favorite buildings in person—and considerably more for a room with a view of them, or better still, within them. Some trips even revolve entirely around a single site or structure. The late Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao sparked a phenomenon—tourists flew-in just to see the shiny new building, and the whole city’s economy boomed as a result. Other sites see fewer benefits, like the Leaning Tower of Pisa or the Taj Mahal, where hordes of travelers will rock-up for the obligatory photo opp and then promptly depart on their coaches without noticing or contributing anything else—neither sustainable nor beneficial.

What are visitors getting out of these flash encounters, and why allocate so much money and energy to a fleeting drive-by? One would hope they gain a sense of awe, a deeper appreciation of history and culture, and a greater understanding of the world. But I suspect many leave with nothing more than a handful of pics that never make it off their phones, and a check mark on the list-that-shall-not-be-named. At the same time, the sheer volume of people at many of these sites makes the experience less meaningful for everyone. Barcelona, Venice, Kyoto, and many others are facing this problem and pushing back hard against over-tourism as a result. We should ask ourselves if it’s really worth lining up with thousands of others to get a partially blocked glance of a bridge, a tower, or a temple—no matter how famous (and this goes beyond architecture, too).

I’m the first to admit my love of visiting buildings all over the world. As a recovering architecture graduate, and a writer and editor for shelter publications for the past 15 years, my must-see list includes both the renowned and the niche. In the past I’ve taken a solo half-day detour from San Diego to see Louis Kahn’s Salk Institute, dragged my husband across Lisbon to AL_A’s MAAT museum (nearly missing our cruise departure), and even rerouted an entire rugby team to show them Zaha Hadid’s Guangzhou Opera House.

Rather than simply show up, snap a few photos, and move on, I always try my best to dig deeper—research the history, understand the context, and consider the building’s impact today. Visiting any site in-person creates a much more tangible connection, and builds long-lasting memories. So for me, a special excursion to check out any of my favorites is always worthwhile. I’ve chosen to call these intentional expeditions “architectural pilgrimages,” and, as with any pilgrimage, the aim is to personally reflect along the way too.

For many years, Sea Ranch has held the coveted top spot on my personal architectural pilgrimage wish list. Ever since university, when I learned about this unique modernist enclave and the contributions of its notable architects, I’ve longed to experience the place firsthand. Stretching nine miles along a remote stretch of California’s rugged Pacific Coast, the planned community was developed in the 1960s by a group of like-minded individuals who envisioned a haven where architecture and nature would seamlessly coalesce. They created strict design regulations to ensure any construction enhanced rather than disrupted the dramatic coastal landscape.

These environmentally sensitive principles they established—from mandating wood cladding and sloping rooflines, to carefully positioning windows to maintain privacy—are still upheld by the Design Committee today. Annoying for new residents? Perhaps. But their diligence has preserved the area as a powerful example of harmony between the natural and the man-made.

After years of dreaming, I finally had the opportunity to visit and stay overnight at Sea Ranch in August 2025, as part of a group trip organized by the locally based Flowers Winery. The timing couldn’t have been more convenient: my Green Card application had restricted international travel, and I was taking the opportunity to explore more of the US (read about my Oregon trip here). Starting with two dreamy days sipping Flowers’ chardonnay and pinot noir while learning about the unique Sonoma Coast terroir, we spent the final 24 hours of the trip at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (A more detailed review is coming later in Issue 013.) At last, here was my chance to see one of the world’s greatest concentrations of preserved modernist architecture.

The coastal drive alone—spectacular, winding, and slightly nauseating—only heightened my anticipation. Upon arrival, my excitement was at fever pitch, and thankfully, entirely justified. The striking landscape immediately instilled a sense of serenity, while the sculptural buildings amplified the drama of the coastline. Standing between these timber structures and the roaring ocean, I was assured why Sea Ranch holds such iconic status for me. The unwavering commitment to context, combined with the dream of building a rural community along with friends, is exactly how I imagine living one day—a pie-in-the-sky idea for now, but I’ll happily indulge the fantasy.

With only limited time to explore, a few of us walked along the cliffs to admire the private residences, and I felt a sharp pang of envy for those lucky enough to call this place home. Later, the famed California sunset did not disappoint, and I dashed out of dinner multiple times to photograph the lodge in blazing orange light. Even after stargazing late into the night, I woke at dawn to capture the misty morning gloom, watching the fog slowly lift from the buildings and cliffs to reveal the sun’s low rays. Shortly after, a studio visit with local photographer Arun Patel became an impromptu adventure through a nearby redwood grove, where we were suitably humbled beneath the towering trees.

One of the greatest joys of the trip was the relative solitude. Hardly anyone else was around, allowing me to savor the quiet, the remoteness, and the sheer beauty of the place uninterrupted. In writing about Sea Ranch now, I’m by no means advocating for everyone to rush out and visit at once. But if you’re equally enamored by its story, do make it a point to go someday—let’s just please keep it as special as possible.

In that vein, I’m encouraging you, Far-Flung Corners readers, to pause and consider which other buildings or monuments are on your own must-see list, and why. Perhaps there’s a personal connection: your parents took a picture in front of one during their honeymoon, or another plays a starring role in your favorite film. Or maybe it’s the engineering, the mythology, or the cultural significance that fascinates you. Ideally, it’s all of the above. For any visit, there should always be a purpose beyond following the crowds and checking a box. With a little research that goes beyond scanning a “top 10 things to see…” article, a trip immediately becomes more intentional.

Needless to say, my experience at Sea Ranch exceeded every expectation. I didn’t just “meet” my hero—I was utterly spellbound. And along my pilgrimage, I learned several things. I crave contact with nature far more than I used to. I firmly believe in sustainable development that works with the land rather than against it, and now recognize the need to champion it more actively. I deeply enjoy photography, and am gaining more skill and confidence behind the lens (a heartfelt thank-you to pro Daniel Gorostieta for the encouragement and tips!). And, perhaps most meaningfully, I was reminded why I chose to study architecture in the first place.

So here’s to many more architectural pilgrimages to come—for me, and hopefully for you too.

Dearest Readers,

Can you believe it? It’s been just over a year since I first launched Far-Flung Corners on Substack and Instagram. When I began this project, I promised myself I’d commit to it for at least 12 months and then take stock. Any seed needs time to grow and bloom, after all. And here we are.

I’ll be frank: it’s been a challenge. Finding time to write, edit, photograph, edit some more, publish, and then promote this Substack alongside my freelance and consulting work (which, let’s face it, pays the bills) is tricky, to say the least. As is navigating whether or not it’s appropriate to promote anything at all amid the current news cycle. I’m sure anyone pursuing a passion project can relate to all of the above.

While I was perhaps a little naïve launching this without much of a plan, I’m very proud of getting it off the ground. Through publishing 12 Issues, and by studying how others are using this quickly evolving platform, I feel I’ve learned a great deal about what works and what doesn’t. By reflecting on what I enjoy most and least about the process—and the digital media landscape as a whole—I’ve also developed a clearer direction for future goals and ambitions. Learning was always one of the core motivations behind this initiative, which I need to remind myself of from time to time.

The initial idea for Far-Flung Corners was to share my personal perspective on places that are undiscovered, off the beaten path, or have a unique enough design or cultural angle to warrant visiting. Transparently, the curatorial direction of the Issues so far—Volume 01, as I’ve decided to call them—was largely dictated by where I was invited to go for other assignments. Fortunately, I made it to some real stunners: everything from an Italian castle to an English manor; an Ibizan finca to an Oregon lodge. Reaching nine countries and four continents, it’s been a joyous whirlwind and an absolute privilege.

But as I wrote in my first Editor’s Letter, I want this platform to offer more than fun stories and pretty pictures. The ultimate goal is to encourage a shift in both where and how we travel. This industry is changing quickly, and sadly, more and more destinations are being spoiled by sheer numbers of visitors and a collective lack of consideration. I’m aiming to highlight lesser-known locations that might entice those with the ways, means, and desire for adventure. I’m also advocating for responsible, sustainable, “softer” travel that can lessen the impact on well-trodden sites and drive cultural and economic benefits in less-visited areas.

As this publication grows in scale, ambition, and (fingers crossed) readership, my hope is that I’ll be able to visit and cover the far-flung destinations I always intended to, in order to fulfill its wider mission. Despite the challenges, I thoroughly enjoy writing this newsletter for you, and if it makes even the smallest impact or offers a brief escape from reality, I’ll consider that a success.

So now, with all of the above in mind, I’m ready to kick off this exciting next chapter for Far-Flung Corners. Volume 02 will launch very soon with a slightly different, more refined format. Additional content to feed the algorithms, more variety for readers, and (hopefully) some fun collaborations with people, brands, and partners I love and admire. Here’s what to expect…

Re-imagined Issues

Each Far-Flung Corners Issue will still focus on a single trip or destination, but will now comprise multiple pieces of content—much like a print magazine. Spanning personal essays, reviews, guides, interviews, and whatever other article types emerge along the way, these Issues will allow me to paint a fuller picture of each place I cover. Hopefully, down the line, there will also be guest contributions, cross-Substack collaborations, print editions, IRL events… Who knows? I’m open to it all.

Some of these posts will remain free and accessible to all; others will sit behind a paywall. This ensures that the places I highlight don’t become overrun (not that my current subscriber base will ruin a location anytime soon, ha!) and allows me to begin earning a small amount from this project so I can better justify the time I spend on it.

The paid subscription fee is only $5 a month—less than a New York City coffee. I hope you’ll consider subscribing (if you don’t already) or upgrading to paid if you do. That said, I’m acutely aware that times are tough, so there’s absolutely no need to apologize if you can’t justify the expense right now.

Subscribe now

What you’ll receive in each Issue as a Far-Flung Corners subscriber:

Personal Essays

Let’s get a little more personal, shall we? Each Issue in Volume 02 will lead with a feature-style story exploring the most impactful moments, poignant experiences, or thoughtful realizations of the trip in focus. These posts are my opportunity to share all the amazing and challenging elements of travel, and to contextualize them within the wider world.

– Personal Essay posts will continue to be free and accessible to all.

Hotel Reviews

If you’re looking for recommendations or advice on where to stay, Hotel Reviews will detail the properties I visit as part of each Issue. Sometimes there’ll be one, other times several, but each will get a dedicated post offering a personal, subjective take—viewed, as usual, through a design-focused lens. I hope you’ll trust my taste and appreciate my honesty.

– Hotel Review posts will be available to paid subscribers.

Favorite Corners

I went back and forth on creating a destination guide series. So many already exist, often listing the same places and written based on hype rather than personal experience. So instead, I decided to highlight the places I visited and enjoyed on each trip. These “Favorite Corners” could be restaurants, museums, landmarks, streets I loved wandering, or spots where I simply sat and watched the world go by. Rather than a list of recommendations, consider this series an invitation to discover your own favorite corners, wherever your travels take you.

– Favorite Corners posts will be available to paid subscribers.

Quick Flings

For hospitality or cultural spaces I visit on the fly—and believe are worth a mention—I’ll share photos and short reviews directly to Instagram. I’m calling these Quick Flings (get it?!) and they’ll help me cover more of the amazing spots I encounter without overthinking the content too much.

– Quick Fling posts will be available to Instagram followers. Follow my personal IG @dahowarth as well as the @farflung.corners page for these updates.

Volume 02 Teaser

So what’s coming up? As promised, we’re going further than before. I’ll be sharing a recent pilgrimage to Sea Ranch and an escape into the wilderness of Joshua Tree—both in California while I was stuck in the US—plus a multi-leg trip to Peru that took me from the Amazon to the Andes, and much more. I hope the new format provides even more inspiration, food for thought, and, importantly, encouragement to explore the world with fewer checklists and more curiosity.

Before I sign off, I want to say a huge and heartfelt thank you to all of you who subscribe and follow along with my adventures. Friends, family, peers, colleagues, and even a few strangers—your support means the world to me.

And finally, please do reach out if you have feedback, ideas, pitches, partnership opportunities, or simply want to connect over a shared love of adventure. Wherever I am in the world, I’m only ever an email or DM away.

All my love, and safe travels!

D x

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Introduction

As much as I love the idea of relaxing, I find it very hard to switch off. When I’m doing nothing, my mind easily wanders and begins racing with ideas. I often get antsy wanting to explore new places and try new things. Maybe I have undiagnosed ADHD? Despite this, there comes a point every once in a while when I realize I really need to slow things down somewhat. And after an intense, stressful, whirlwind six months that started 2025, I needed a minute to recalibrate away from the city, and people altogether. I didn’t just want to touch grass; I yearned to be surrounded by wildlife and next to water.

The timing of an invitation to a recently renovated, riverside lodge in Southwest Oregon couldn’t have been better. A solo trip that involved a lot of scenic driving, communing with nature, walks along pebbled shores, and baking in a sauna? It hit all the right notes. I accepted the fact that I wouldn’t unwind completely (I still had work to complete, and meetings to attend both on-property and virtually), but I knew that being in the Pacific time zone and having little to no cell service would definitely help. So once I arrived to the soothing presence of the Rogue River’s languid meander and gentle babbling, I gave myself permission to clear my head and slow heart rate down to an acceptable pace. For four days, at least.

Southwest Oregon

Of all the corners of the US I’ve visited so far, Southwest Oregon might be my favorite. The drive from Medford airport towards the Pacific coast took me through some spectacular scenery, along twisting roads that followed densely forested river gorges. Then once I hit the ocean, a stretch of dramatic coastline awaited, where huge chunks of rock sculpted by the wind and waves balance almost impossibly just off the beaches. The route passed down beside these craggy behemoths, then up to clifftop lookouts that offer aerial views over them—bay after headland, after bay.

This is a land of rivers that scamper impatiently between steep gorges before turning into wide, sedentary giants that slowly meander through wide valleys as they reach their mouths. A land of Redwood trees older than most countries, thicker than shipping containers, and taller than skyscrapers, which can make any human feel insignificant. A land that meets the ocean in such powerful, cataclysmic fashion, where the clusters of enormous boulders explode out of the water. And for extra dramatic effect, all of this landscape is often shrouded in a thick fog. Strangely, there are very few high-end places to stay and experience this beauty. But luckily I had found one.

Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge

Positioned on a sweeping bend of the Rogue River, a 15-minute drive inland from where it meets the Pacific, Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge sits against a forested mountain backdrop and faces another across the wide, shallow water. The hotel’s elevated vantage on the hillside offers views that stretch along and around the valley. It’s not exactly in the wilderness, but it certainly does feel very remote. Aside from a tiny landing strip in nearby Gold Beach, the only way to get here from other parts of the country is to drive three hours from Medford (as I did), 3.5 hours from Eugene, or 5.5 hours from Portland. And other than a few RV parks, campsites, and cattle ranches, there’s not a whole lot else in the immediate vicinity.

Named after the Tututni Indigenous tribe that first inhabited the area, the original lodge was built in the 1970s and has retained the cozy, rustic charm specific to that era. Former Oregon vintner Charles Banks and his family bought the property a few years back, he told me over cocktails, and then purchased the adjacent lot that had previously hosted a trailer park. Due to the existing planning designation, the family were able to add a series of prefabricated cabins to the site to expand the accommodation offering, and tempt guests to this relatively undiscovered corner of the country with a fairly novel concept. During my stay, the demographic was mostly older couple and groups, and younger couples or friends celebrating anniversaries or birthdays—all who’d come to enjoy peace and quiet in nature.

Architecture & Design

The 1970s lodge building looks like a typical Pacific Northwest vacation outpost. A wooden A-frame forms the main structure, in which the reception, restaurant, bar, and lounge are located—all very “mountain mid-century.” A two-story block of guest rooms, designed in a similar log-cabin style, extends out to one side so that it too enjoys the best views of the river. These spaces were all updated as part of a recent renovation.

The property’s 12 prefabricated timber units, designed by ÖÖD and known as the Glass Cabins, are definitely the biggest draw. These are wrapped with mirrored glass on three sides, and scattered across the site to enjoy either mountain, creek, or river views—find more details in my article for Dezeen. Simple yet striking, these reflective volumes disappear into the greenery or shine in the sunlight, depending on the weather and time of day. It’s a neat trick, and looks very effective. But many critics (i.e. Dezeen commenters) of mirrored buildings point out their potential harm to wildlife.

Guest Rooms

I was fortunate to stay in one of the Glass Cabins, which are each adorably named after a local bird species. Although my view was mostly of other cabins in front, it was still a pleasantly surreal experience to wake up to so much light, and to witness the fog draped over mountaintops behind. Each of these compact units sleeps two, though barely offered enough space for just one, so prepare to get cozy!

It’s a slightly odd sensation staying inside a container that you can see out of but others can’t see into, particularly whilst taking a shower or laying in bed (though there are curtains if you feel uncomfortable). Walking around at night, I did notice that the lights inside the cabins created silhouettes of the occupants—sort of like the shadow-play moments in the Austin Powers movies—so there’s definitely not total privacy. Also, the wifi signal in the room was effectively non-existent. Great if you need to be forced into a digital detox; not so helpful if you end up having to answer urgent emails or take calls.

Dining & Drinking

Tu Tu’ Tun’s on-site restaurant is helmed by executive chef Derek Piva—who was behind several Tao Group hotspots—and operates a "wilderness to table" ethos that highlights Pacific Northwest farmers and businesses. Everything I ate was top-notch, from salmon with green curry sauce and a ginger salad for a kick, to French toast smothered in marshmallow and freeze-dried raspberries. But the most impressive dish was a rack of lamb on a bed of dried herbs that chef set on fire when it reached the table—so aromatic and perfectly charred.

Cocktails were equally innovative and delicious, best enjoyed on the terrace as the sun set. For those staying a few nights, be prepared to work your way through the food and drink menus, or repeat favorites, as other dining options in Gold Beach are “limited.” There is a spot called Groundling Pizza on the other side of the river, about a 15-minute drive away, which prepares yummy wood-fired pies in a no-frills, waterfront locale. But that’s about it.

Amenities & Activities

While my goal was to do nothing at Tu Tu’ Tun, and I mostly succeeded, there were a host of activities for those with more appetite for action—mostly revolving around the river. Guests can swim, take out canoes, or join one of the externally operated tour cruises from a jetty in front of the property. There’s also an outdoor pool and terrace right outside the main lodge for a less vigorous dip, and plenty of Adirondack chairs dotted around the grass in which to read or birdwatch (I saw several bald eagles).

Another smaller mirrored cabin houses a sauna, and is conveniently placed next to the river for those brave enough to partake in a natural cold plunge between sessions (I was not, though I did dip my toes in). The activities I enjoyed the most during my stay were the simplest: taking a phone-less walk along the river’s pebble beach, which was incredibly soothing, and exploring the nearby natural wonders of the Oregon coastline.

Oregon Coast

Along the Samuel H Boardman State Scenic Corridor is one of the most rugged, beautiful coastlines I’ve ever encountered. The drive along the ocean changes back and forth from towering cliffs to wide sweeping beaches every few miles, with the weather changing as quickly as the landscape. It could be sunny in one bay, only for the next to be cloaked in thick fog by the time you reach it.

In some places, the crashing waves have carved out huge arches and deep coves from the basalt. In others, massive hunks of rock are left standing lonely out to sea, and their scale is so much more impressive when viewed from the driftwood-scattered sands. There are plenty of overlooks and parking spots both high and low, and it was fun to hop between them one by one, and stop for a few minutes to marvel at the different rock formations. Since these stops are along the west, it’s easiest to pull in and out when driving north to south. My favorites were Meyers Creek, Arch Rock, and Natural Bridges, if you only have time for a few.

Redwood Forest

As soon as I learned that I’d be traveling through the Redwood forests on this trip, a pin was immediately placed in my Google map so that I stop along the way. Technically over the California state line, but still along the main Route 199 from Medford to the Oregon coast, the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a popular camping site. Several looping trails pass through the giant trees and run along the crystal-clear Smith River. Walking amongst these giants evokes a similar awe as passing through Midtown Manhattan for the first time. Except there’s no noise other than the rustling of leaves and chirping of birds, and the notion of being small is so much more exaggerated because the giants are of Mother Nature’s making, not man’s.

Note: Doubling the luck, I visited another Redwood grove during an August trip to Sea Ranch, further south down the California coast. I therefore dubbed 2025 my ‘Red Hot Redwood Summer,’ and I’ll remember it that way forever.

Cowhorn & Jacksonville

To cap-off this trip, I made a stop on the journey back at Cowhorn, the Banks family’s vineyard in the Applegate Valley. While the Willamette Valley is Oregon’s better-known wine region, this area is also home to an impressive number of producers. Cowhorn primarily grows and sells biodynamic Rhône varietals, including Viognier, Marsanne Rousanne, Grenache, Syrah, and Pinot Noir, as well as several blends. The winery itself is set in a picturesque valley, and has a tasting room and garden right beside the vines, where visitors can pair their flights with wood-fired pizza. I stayed overnight at The Overlook, a new construction up the hill that can be rented by groups, and has a gorgeous covered terrace that benefits from its elevated position over the vineyard.

Cowhorn also operates a small restaurant in Jacksonville, a historic gold-mining town 20 minutes north of the vineyard—not far from Medford, where I began this trip. Here, diners can sample the estate’s various wines with complementary dishes. I wolfed down a carrot-four-ways appetizer, and the lime sorbet blew my mind. The town of Jacksonville was surprisingly very charming, with its main street that looks straight out of a Western movie. Its center is listed on the National Historic Register, and there are a handful of cute cafes, saloon-style bars, and gift shops to entertain visitors.

Ending the journey here, I was gently eased back into the real world after filling my cup with the wildlife and water I was craving. I did manage to switch-off and relax after all, and it was because I was able to disappear into one of the most beautiful yet relatively undiscovered parts of the US. So let’s keep it our secret, shall we?

Thank Yous

Many thanks to Halle Lipov and Lily Daniel from Mona Creative for the invitation, booking my flights, and coordinating my stays at Tu Tu’ Tun and Cowhorn. Thanks to Charles Banks, Mini Byers, and their extended friends and family for welcoming and entertaining me so warmly. And the Tu Tu’ Team, particularly restaurant manager Hannah, thanks all so much for your genuine hospitality. D x